23 June 2009

From a Plane

Green water of lagoons,
brown water of a great river
sunning its muscles along intelligent
rectangular swathes or
other brown, other green,
alluvial silvers.
----------------Always air
looked down through, gives
a reclamation of order, re-
visioning solace: the great body
not torn apart, though raked and raked
by our claws--

-Denise Levertov

This morning I woke up and made tynne pannekake for myself and flatmate Sandra, and finished the milk in a cup of chai, and thought "This is the part where I leave." I've explored New Zealand by foot, boat, plane, bus, car, bicycle, train...and tomorrow it's time to get on another plane, and another and another, and fly on home.

So I guess that's all.

22 June 2009

Today I took my last exams: marine ecology this morning, and earth and ocean science this afternoon, following up on environmental physiology last Thursday and genetics, a week ago today. Exams here are a lot different; they're proctored, like the SAT or the ACT, by old people who will follow you to the bathroom should you need to go. There's a fundamental but not necessarily inexplicable lack of trust--I didn't bring ID to my first exam, and they had to "perform an identity check" on me, presumably checking the database with our ID photos.

Now, I guess, that part's over, and all that's left is packing up, and cleaning up. Wow.

19 June 2009

My time in New Zealand is drawing to a close; it's alternately bitter and sweet, depending on whether I look at what I'm leaving or where I'm going. I try to look at both, and keep it bittersweet. Either way, today was my last Saturday, and my last farmer's market; Monday will be my last Monday, and my last exams. It's a weird place to be in. With that in mind, Things I'll Miss About New Zealand:
-The farmer's market, of course. Especially walking over early in the morning when hardly anyone is on the streets, and there's no line at the crepe stand.
-Friday afternoons, when I had no lab and would walk to the Octagon, window-shopping, stopping at the public library, and occasionally buying mini-donuts from the cart on the Otago Museum lawn.
-The Dunedin Public Art Gallery, which is big in that it has high ceilings and small in that it takes about half an hour to walk through and changes its exhibits about monthly.
-Being able to get fish'n'chips from a takeaway just about anywhere.
-Passionfruit in things you eat, not just shampoo.
-Hot pools you can hike to.
-Saying 'cheers' instead of 'thanks'.
-The Wednesday night ice cream truck on Leith Street.
-The Dunedin Botanic Gardens, especially the aviary.
-Sheep within the city limits.
-Mountains out my window in the morning.

...and Things I Miss About America:
-Canned black beans, and Mexican food (any American approximation is a lot closer than the New Zealand approximation).
-Milkshakes, because New Zealand milkshakes are just frothed milk with artificial syrup--you have to pay extra for ice cream, if you want it.
-Speaking of syrup, the maple kind.
-Speaking of maples, trees I know the names of.
-Large mammals that aren't non-native species.
-Northern hemisphere seasons, both the time they happen and their extremity--winter here is just like extended fall.
-Central heating, though that won't matter as much because I'm going back to summer.
-Driving on the right side of the road, drivers' side on the left.
-Ben & Jerry's ice cream.
-Being able to get up in the morning without shuddering.
-Family.

16 June 2009

The Far Field

I.
I dream of journeys repeatedly:
Of flying like a bat deep into a narrowing tunnel
Of driving alone, without luggage, out a long peninsula,
The road lined with snow-laden second growth,
A fine dry snow ticking the windshield,
Alternate snow and sleet, no on-coming traffic,
And no lights behind, in the blurred side-mirror,
The road changing from glazed tarface to a rubble of stone,
Ending at last in a hopeless sand-rut,
Where the car stalls,
Churning in a snowdrift
Until the headlights darken.

II.
At the field's end, in the corner missed by the mower,
Where the turf drops off into a grass-hidden culvert,
Haunt of the cat-bird, nesting-place of the field-mouse,
Not too far away from the ever-changing flower-dump,
Among the tin cans, tires, rusted pipes, broken machinery, --
One learned of the eternal;
And in the shrunken face of a dead rat, eaten by rain and ground-beetles
(I found in lying among the rubble of an old coal bin)
And the tom-cat, caught near the pheasant-run,
Its entrails strewn over the half-grown flowers,
Blasted to death by the night watchman.
I suffered for young birds, for young rabbits caught in the mower,
My grief was not excessive.
For to come upon warblers in early May
Was to forget time and death:
How they filled the oriole's elm, a twittering restless cloud, all one morning,
And I watched and watched till my eyes blurred from the bird shapes, --
Cape May, Blackburnian, Cerulean, --
Moving, elusive as fish, fearless,
Hanging, bunched like young fruit, bending the end branches,
Still for a moment,
Then pitching away in half-flight,
Lighter than finches,
While the wrens bickered and sang in the half-green hedgerows,
And the flicker drummed from his dead tree in the chicken-yard.
-- Or to lie naked in sand,
In the silted shallows of a slow river,
Fingering a shell,
Thinking:
Once I was something like this, mindless,
Or perhaps with another mind, less peculiar;
Or to sink down to the hips in a mossy quagmire;
Or, with skinny knees, to sit astride a wet log,
Believing:
I'll return again,
As a snake or a raucous bird,
Or, with luck, as a lion.
I learned not to fear infinity,
The far field, the windy cliffs of forever,
The dying of time in the white light of tomorrow,
The wheel turning away from itself,
The sprawl of the wave,
The on-coming water.

III.
The river turns on itself,
The tree retreats into its own shadow.
I feel a weightless change, a moving forward
As of water quickening before a narrowing channel
When banks converge, and the wide river whitens;
Or when two rivers combine, the blue glacial torrent
And the yellowish-green from the mountainy upland, --
At first a swift rippling between rocks,
Then a long running over flat stones
Before descending to the alluvial plane,
To the clay banks, and the wild grapes hanging from the elmtrees.
The slightly trembling water
Dropping a fine yellow silt where the sun stays;
And the crabs bask near the edge,
The weedy edge, alive with small snakes and bloodsuckers, --
I have come to a still, but not a deep center,
A point outside the glittering current;
My eyes stare at the bottom of a river,
At the irregular stones, iridescent sandgrains,
My mind moves in more than one place,
In a country half-land, half-water.

I am renewed by death, thought of my death,
The dry scent of a dying garden in September,
The wind fanning the ash of a low fire.
What I love is near at hand,
Always, in earth and air.

IV.
The lost self changes,
Turning toward the sea,
A sea-shape turning around, --
An old man with his feet before the fire,
In robes of green, in garments of adieu.
A man faced with his own immensity
Wakes all the waves, all their loose wandering fire.
The murmur of the absolute, the why
Of being born falls on his naked ears.
His spirit moves like monumental wind
That gentles on a sunny blue plateau.
He is the end of things, the final man.

All finite things reveal infinitude:
The mountain with its singular bright shade
Like the blue shine on freshly frozen snow,
The after-light upon ice-burdened pines;
Odor of basswood on a mountain-slope,
A scent beloved of bees;
Silence of water above a sunken tree :
The pure serene of memory in one man, --
A ripple widening from a single stone
Winding around the waters of the world.

-Theodore Roethke

12 June 2009

10 June 2009

One last hike (tramp, in New Zealish): me and four others on the Copland Track, in to Welcome Flat Hut and then out a day later, after spending a day studying and reading and exploring and soaking in hot pools (yes, hot pools). 

On the walk in we had beautiful weather, and ambled beside the Copland River which was the true-blue of glacial meltwater, and lined with the coolest rocks (schist, I think, only because I know the basement rock in New Zealand is mostly schist and I don't think it was anything else). On the walk out it rained and poured, we walked 17k in 6 hours, the river had turned muddy brown and all the waterfalls had turned on. We put the flood bridges to good use, but nearly every inch of my body was wet when we got back to the car. Which isn't to say it wasn't worth it. 

09 June 2009

Mom (hi Mom) asked for a happy poem; or asked me if I read any. This is one, I think.

Some Things The World Gave

1
Times in the morning early
when it rained and the long gray
buildings came forward from darkness
offering their windows for light.

2
Evenings out there on the plains
when sunset donated farms
that yearned so far to the west that the world
centered there and bowed down.

3
A teacher at a country school
walking home past a great marsh
where ducks came gliding in --
she saw the boy out hunting and waved.

4
Silence on a hill where the path ended
and then the forest below
moving in one long whisper
as evening touched the leaves.

5
Shelter in winter that day --
a storm coming, but in the lee
of an island in a cover with friends --
oh, little bright cup of sun.

-Mary Oliver

05 June 2009

Classes are over, internal assessment is done. Now what? The sun is setting on my time at Otago; I have three weeks and four exams to go, and then home.

03 June 2009

Self Portrait at Twenty Years

I set off, I took up the march and never knew
where it might take me. I went full of fear,
my stomach dropped, my head was buzzing:
I think it was the icy wind of the dead.
I don't know. I set off, I thought it was a shame
to leave so soon, but at the same time
I heard that mysterious and convincing call.
You either listen or you don't, and I listened
and almost burst out crying: a terrible sound,
born on the air and in the sea.
A sword and shield. And then,
despite the fear, I set off, I put my cheek
against death's cheek.
And it was impossible to close my eyes and miss seeing
that strange spectacle, slow and strange,
though fixed in such a swift reality:
thousands of guys like me, baby-faced
or bearded, but Latin American, all of us,
brushing cheeks with death.

-Roberto BolaƱo

02 June 2009

Not quite Edward Weston.

Since I've been here, I've made a rule about buying any fruit I don't recognize at the grocery store, that I have to. The red one is a tomarillo (not to be confused with a tomatillo), the green one is a feijoa. I don't really know how to describe what they taste like, but you eat both of them by cutting them open and scooping out the flesh (I had to google that).

01 June 2009