Showing posts with label place: nz. Show all posts
Showing posts with label place: nz. Show all posts

23 June 2009

From a Plane

Green water of lagoons,
brown water of a great river
sunning its muscles along intelligent
rectangular swathes or
other brown, other green,
alluvial silvers.
----------------Always air
looked down through, gives
a reclamation of order, re-
visioning solace: the great body
not torn apart, though raked and raked
by our claws--

-Denise Levertov

This morning I woke up and made tynne pannekake for myself and flatmate Sandra, and finished the milk in a cup of chai, and thought "This is the part where I leave." I've explored New Zealand by foot, boat, plane, bus, car, bicycle, train...and tomorrow it's time to get on another plane, and another and another, and fly on home.

So I guess that's all.

22 June 2009

Today I took my last exams: marine ecology this morning, and earth and ocean science this afternoon, following up on environmental physiology last Thursday and genetics, a week ago today. Exams here are a lot different; they're proctored, like the SAT or the ACT, by old people who will follow you to the bathroom should you need to go. There's a fundamental but not necessarily inexplicable lack of trust--I didn't bring ID to my first exam, and they had to "perform an identity check" on me, presumably checking the database with our ID photos.

Now, I guess, that part's over, and all that's left is packing up, and cleaning up. Wow.

19 June 2009

My time in New Zealand is drawing to a close; it's alternately bitter and sweet, depending on whether I look at what I'm leaving or where I'm going. I try to look at both, and keep it bittersweet. Either way, today was my last Saturday, and my last farmer's market; Monday will be my last Monday, and my last exams. It's a weird place to be in. With that in mind, Things I'll Miss About New Zealand:
-The farmer's market, of course. Especially walking over early in the morning when hardly anyone is on the streets, and there's no line at the crepe stand.
-Friday afternoons, when I had no lab and would walk to the Octagon, window-shopping, stopping at the public library, and occasionally buying mini-donuts from the cart on the Otago Museum lawn.
-The Dunedin Public Art Gallery, which is big in that it has high ceilings and small in that it takes about half an hour to walk through and changes its exhibits about monthly.
-Being able to get fish'n'chips from a takeaway just about anywhere.
-Passionfruit in things you eat, not just shampoo.
-Hot pools you can hike to.
-Saying 'cheers' instead of 'thanks'.
-The Wednesday night ice cream truck on Leith Street.
-The Dunedin Botanic Gardens, especially the aviary.
-Sheep within the city limits.
-Mountains out my window in the morning.

...and Things I Miss About America:
-Canned black beans, and Mexican food (any American approximation is a lot closer than the New Zealand approximation).
-Milkshakes, because New Zealand milkshakes are just frothed milk with artificial syrup--you have to pay extra for ice cream, if you want it.
-Speaking of syrup, the maple kind.
-Speaking of maples, trees I know the names of.
-Large mammals that aren't non-native species.
-Northern hemisphere seasons, both the time they happen and their extremity--winter here is just like extended fall.
-Central heating, though that won't matter as much because I'm going back to summer.
-Driving on the right side of the road, drivers' side on the left.
-Ben & Jerry's ice cream.
-Being able to get up in the morning without shuddering.
-Family.

16 June 2009

The Far Field

I.
I dream of journeys repeatedly:
Of flying like a bat deep into a narrowing tunnel
Of driving alone, without luggage, out a long peninsula,
The road lined with snow-laden second growth,
A fine dry snow ticking the windshield,
Alternate snow and sleet, no on-coming traffic,
And no lights behind, in the blurred side-mirror,
The road changing from glazed tarface to a rubble of stone,
Ending at last in a hopeless sand-rut,
Where the car stalls,
Churning in a snowdrift
Until the headlights darken.

II.
At the field's end, in the corner missed by the mower,
Where the turf drops off into a grass-hidden culvert,
Haunt of the cat-bird, nesting-place of the field-mouse,
Not too far away from the ever-changing flower-dump,
Among the tin cans, tires, rusted pipes, broken machinery, --
One learned of the eternal;
And in the shrunken face of a dead rat, eaten by rain and ground-beetles
(I found in lying among the rubble of an old coal bin)
And the tom-cat, caught near the pheasant-run,
Its entrails strewn over the half-grown flowers,
Blasted to death by the night watchman.
I suffered for young birds, for young rabbits caught in the mower,
My grief was not excessive.
For to come upon warblers in early May
Was to forget time and death:
How they filled the oriole's elm, a twittering restless cloud, all one morning,
And I watched and watched till my eyes blurred from the bird shapes, --
Cape May, Blackburnian, Cerulean, --
Moving, elusive as fish, fearless,
Hanging, bunched like young fruit, bending the end branches,
Still for a moment,
Then pitching away in half-flight,
Lighter than finches,
While the wrens bickered and sang in the half-green hedgerows,
And the flicker drummed from his dead tree in the chicken-yard.
-- Or to lie naked in sand,
In the silted shallows of a slow river,
Fingering a shell,
Thinking:
Once I was something like this, mindless,
Or perhaps with another mind, less peculiar;
Or to sink down to the hips in a mossy quagmire;
Or, with skinny knees, to sit astride a wet log,
Believing:
I'll return again,
As a snake or a raucous bird,
Or, with luck, as a lion.
I learned not to fear infinity,
The far field, the windy cliffs of forever,
The dying of time in the white light of tomorrow,
The wheel turning away from itself,
The sprawl of the wave,
The on-coming water.

III.
The river turns on itself,
The tree retreats into its own shadow.
I feel a weightless change, a moving forward
As of water quickening before a narrowing channel
When banks converge, and the wide river whitens;
Or when two rivers combine, the blue glacial torrent
And the yellowish-green from the mountainy upland, --
At first a swift rippling between rocks,
Then a long running over flat stones
Before descending to the alluvial plane,
To the clay banks, and the wild grapes hanging from the elmtrees.
The slightly trembling water
Dropping a fine yellow silt where the sun stays;
And the crabs bask near the edge,
The weedy edge, alive with small snakes and bloodsuckers, --
I have come to a still, but not a deep center,
A point outside the glittering current;
My eyes stare at the bottom of a river,
At the irregular stones, iridescent sandgrains,
My mind moves in more than one place,
In a country half-land, half-water.

I am renewed by death, thought of my death,
The dry scent of a dying garden in September,
The wind fanning the ash of a low fire.
What I love is near at hand,
Always, in earth and air.

IV.
The lost self changes,
Turning toward the sea,
A sea-shape turning around, --
An old man with his feet before the fire,
In robes of green, in garments of adieu.
A man faced with his own immensity
Wakes all the waves, all their loose wandering fire.
The murmur of the absolute, the why
Of being born falls on his naked ears.
His spirit moves like monumental wind
That gentles on a sunny blue plateau.
He is the end of things, the final man.

All finite things reveal infinitude:
The mountain with its singular bright shade
Like the blue shine on freshly frozen snow,
The after-light upon ice-burdened pines;
Odor of basswood on a mountain-slope,
A scent beloved of bees;
Silence of water above a sunken tree :
The pure serene of memory in one man, --
A ripple widening from a single stone
Winding around the waters of the world.

-Theodore Roethke

12 June 2009

10 June 2009

One last hike (tramp, in New Zealish): me and four others on the Copland Track, in to Welcome Flat Hut and then out a day later, after spending a day studying and reading and exploring and soaking in hot pools (yes, hot pools). 

On the walk in we had beautiful weather, and ambled beside the Copland River which was the true-blue of glacial meltwater, and lined with the coolest rocks (schist, I think, only because I know the basement rock in New Zealand is mostly schist and I don't think it was anything else). On the walk out it rained and poured, we walked 17k in 6 hours, the river had turned muddy brown and all the waterfalls had turned on. We put the flood bridges to good use, but nearly every inch of my body was wet when we got back to the car. Which isn't to say it wasn't worth it. 

09 June 2009

Mom (hi Mom) asked for a happy poem; or asked me if I read any. This is one, I think.

Some Things The World Gave

1
Times in the morning early
when it rained and the long gray
buildings came forward from darkness
offering their windows for light.

2
Evenings out there on the plains
when sunset donated farms
that yearned so far to the west that the world
centered there and bowed down.

3
A teacher at a country school
walking home past a great marsh
where ducks came gliding in --
she saw the boy out hunting and waved.

4
Silence on a hill where the path ended
and then the forest below
moving in one long whisper
as evening touched the leaves.

5
Shelter in winter that day --
a storm coming, but in the lee
of an island in a cover with friends --
oh, little bright cup of sun.

-Mary Oliver

05 June 2009

Classes are over, internal assessment is done. Now what? The sun is setting on my time at Otago; I have three weeks and four exams to go, and then home.

03 June 2009

Self Portrait at Twenty Years

I set off, I took up the march and never knew
where it might take me. I went full of fear,
my stomach dropped, my head was buzzing:
I think it was the icy wind of the dead.
I don't know. I set off, I thought it was a shame
to leave so soon, but at the same time
I heard that mysterious and convincing call.
You either listen or you don't, and I listened
and almost burst out crying: a terrible sound,
born on the air and in the sea.
A sword and shield. And then,
despite the fear, I set off, I put my cheek
against death's cheek.
And it was impossible to close my eyes and miss seeing
that strange spectacle, slow and strange,
though fixed in such a swift reality:
thousands of guys like me, baby-faced
or bearded, but Latin American, all of us,
brushing cheeks with death.

-Roberto Bolaño

02 June 2009

Not quite Edward Weston.

Since I've been here, I've made a rule about buying any fruit I don't recognize at the grocery store, that I have to. The red one is a tomarillo (not to be confused with a tomatillo), the green one is a feijoa. I don't really know how to describe what they taste like, but you eat both of them by cutting them open and scooping out the flesh (I had to google that).

01 June 2009

26 May 2009

Listen, the Fish as They Move
for Kevin Coates

Listen, the fish as they move
from rock to weeds, and from
weeds back to rock--passing
through drifts of coldness--
they do not wince and recoil
when the crow descends upon circles
they start as they break

the surface and yawn at the sun.
Listen, listen beyond the call
of flying fox that has clung
to your mind since nightfall and prayer:
back to the music of ocean
and the honeyeaters in the brushes.
Cries, singular and many,

surround these fish--but they only
stare, dumb and spawning, return
through the dark current of rivers
to shallow clear beginnings.
Ignorant of the flooded gorges in our minds
they return--ignorant of blasphemy,
as each one yawns to swallow the sun.

-Peter Skrzynecki, 1970

23 May 2009

22 May 2009

19 May 2009

Acquainted with the Night
I have been one acquainted with the night.
I have walked out in rain -- and back in rain.
I have outwalked the furthest city light.

I have looked down the saddest city lane.
I have passed by the watchman on his beat
And dropped my eyes, unwilling to explain.

I have stood still and stopped the sound of feet
When far away an interrupted cry
Came over houses from another street,

But not to call me back or say good-bye;
And further still at an unearthly height,
One luminary clock against the sky

Proclaimed the time was neither wrong nor right.
I have been one acquainted with the night.

-Robert Frost, 1928

I know I did Robert Frost already, but this is one of many Robert Frost poems that I have partially memorized, and the line "I have walked out in rain--and back in rain" kept coming into my head because of the weather here. Yesterday I woke up and the sky was blue without a cloud in sight, and I put some clothes out on the line because our dryer just seems to make things warm and keep them moist. When I got out of my lecture, the sky was uniformly grey and it was beginning to rain. Last night, the wind and rain were beating outside--and this morning, our front step was covered with a thin layer of grainy hale. 

The food I've been eating is obviously not in line with the food you want to eat in the Northern hemisphere right now, but here are some recipes anyway. The first one is my own; the second is adapted (heavily) from the one on the back of the cornmeal box, and muffins instead of bread because we have no sort of workable bread/brownie/cake pan (but three muffin tins). I'm pretty sure the chili is vegan, if you use oil instead of butter for the sauteing and don't put any cheese in it (which would be sad)--but that's probably not relevant, because I don't think I know any vegans. 

Beans & Rice Chili

Soak 1/3 cup dried black (turtle) beans for six hours in cold water; change the water (beans should be covered with 1-2 inches of water) and simmer 1-1 ½ hours, covered, until beans are soft. (You could probably just use a can of black beans with the liquid, but they don't sell canned black beans here.)
Heat butter or oil over medium heat in a saucepan. Add half an onion and 2 cloves garlic, minced; simmer until onion begins to soften and is becoming translucent.
Add three stalks chopped celery and 1 tablespoon chopped cilantro, stir and cook until cilantro is fragrent.
Add ½ cup long-grained brown rice, stir to coat. Add two chopped tomatoes, beans with cooking water, and 1-2 cups of water.
Bring to a boil, and add 2-3 teaspoons cumin, ½ teaspoon cocoa powder, ½ teaspoon cinnamon, 1 tablespoon brown suger, ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper (or to taste), and salt and pepper to taste. (This is really not spicy at all, so you may want to add chili powder and/or jalapenos).
Simmer, covered, 30 minutes or until rice is edible. Add a further tablespoon of chopped cilantro prior to serving.
Serves 2-3; serve with grated cheddar cheese and sour cream, or corn muffins.

Corn Muffins

Combine 2 teaspoon baking powder, 1 cup of fine yellow cornmeal, 1 teaspoon salt and 2 tablespoons sugar. 
Add ¼ cup of oil, a little less than 1/3 cup of heavy cream, 2 eggs and 1 ½ teaspoons lemon juice (mixture should be mealy, neither dry nor runny, a little stiff). Alternatively, substitute buttermilk or sour cream for lemon juice and cream.
Divide between 6 greased muffin cups; bake 15-18 minutes at 200ºC/392ºF.

17 May 2009

14 May 2009

What I learned this week:

That, when New Zealand was covered with ocean, there were 1.5-meter tall penguins swimming around. That they've found fossils of amphibious whales the size of sheep in the Himalayas.

That fjords are an estuarine ecosystem, but because they're protected from wave action, instead of mixing the layers of fresh and salt water remain distinct, which can effectively trap marine organisms in the fjord, making them biological islands.

That the dolphins in New Zealand's fjords are some of the only ones in the world who rely on fish nurtured in kelp beds for their diets; they found this out by isotope-tracking bits of the dolphin's skin to determine where they get their carbon from.

That there's a giant prehistoric turtle named after Terry Pratchett (Terrypratchetti, as I understand).

That a researcher on sabbatical who travelled from Montana to Japan to Oslo was able to see the results of diet changes in the isotopic content of his beard hairs.

That there's a species bivalve, Solemya, with no gut or digestive system, that obtains its nutrients from chemioautotrophic bacteria that live inside of it.

That all sorts of things that are unacceptable on land--dumping and dredging and on and on--are acceptable in the oceans. Which is something I already knew, but makes me wonder: if we drained them, what would we see? If we had to walk past the great mass of waste floating in the Pacific every day, and if the oceans were considered wilderness the same way we consider the rainforests, or mountain ranges wilderness, would we accept it so easily?

13 May 2009

Right now I want nothing so much as to go home for Thanksgiving. Then Christmas. I want to eat meat and potatoes and squash, I want to wear flannel pajamas under flannel sheets, and I want to see snow piled outside my windows. I want to go skiing, and sit in the lodge after sipping hot chocolate while a fire roars in a stone hearth.

This things are not going to happen; at least not until those last two months of the year, when they usually happen. In New Zealand Christmas does not coincide with short days and long nights, which seems absurd and impossible (nevermind all that nonsense about first Christmases, and where they happened and when—I won’t have it), and they celebrate Thanksgiving rather half-heartedly in February. But watching the sun set around 5:30 has cued some seasonal clock within me, one that operates on a different level than my logic. So though the calendar says “May” my instinct says “November” and here I am, thinking about Thanksgiving.

I looked up the date of the winter solstice; in the southern hemisphere it falls around June 21st, which is the northern hemisphere’s summer solstice. I’ll be here for that, and four days later I’ll leave, and be thrown into a world where the days are beginning to shorten just as they’ll finally be lengthening here. It’s actually extremely disturbing.

‘Solstice’ comes from two Latin words which together translate as ‘stationary sun.’ But the sun is stationary relative to the vast planet—and assuming that you are sitting in one place on Earth’s surface. And maybe you should be; I told someone that I don’t believe people were meant to switch between the northern and southern hemispheres like this, for this in-between period that is longer than a mere vacation but shorter than forever. When you sit still and wait for it, you have balance; the balance of circadian and seasonal rhythms, even night and day, gradual change. But instead I’m whizzing around the planet like a gnat around a cow’s head, flying in and out of shadow at a delirium-inducing rate. Is it Thanksgiving yet?
Hope

It is to do with trees
being amongst trees.

It is to do with tree-ferns:
mamaku, ponga, wheki.
Shelter under here
is so easily
understood.

You can see that trees
know how it is
to be bound
into the earth
and how it is to rise defiently
into the sky.

It is to do with death:
the great slip in the valley:
when there is nothing left
but to postpone all travel
and wait
in the low gut of the gully
for water, wind and seeds.

It is to do with waiting.
Shall we wait with trees,
shall we wait with,
for, and under trees
since of all creatures
they know the most
about waiting, and waiting
and slowly strengthening,
is the great thing
in grief, we can do?

It is always bleak
at the beginning
but trees are calm
about nothing
which they believe
will give rise to something
flickering and swaying
as they are: so lucid
in their knowledge of green.

-Dinah Hawken, 1995

09 May 2009

Today I got dressed in my sleeping bag--that's how cold it is inside our little flat, with its big windows and thin walls and no central heating. My breath condensed inside. The forecast was for snow, and our cockle-collecting field trip was cancelled due to inclement weather (the first time in seven years our professor has cancelled a field trip--we were all gathered outside the zoology building, bundled in raingear and sweaters, when we drove up in his SUV and blue and yellow fleece hat and told us we could go home). I was actually disappointed, because I had planned to bring a bag a squirrel away some cockles, aka little-neck clams, for steaming at home--the cockle beds we were going to were supposedly the largest in New Zealand? The world? I forget.

So that's what's happening down here. Welcome to the deep south.